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The Thousand Gates; or, morning day two

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I went to bed with aching legs and considering doing something requiring minimal walking today. So of course when I woke up I decided to climb a mountain. Specifically, Mt. Inari, home to Japan's most famous Shinto shrine, Fushimi Inari - aka that place with all the red arches. These torii  gates line the whole path up the mountain, and everywhere you go are shrines. To counterpoint yesterday's necropolis, today I saw a theopolis. Or rather several. There are over a thousand individual shrines on the mountain. It took about two hours to get to the top (about 700 feet up), but I made it!

Afternoon, day 1

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I spent the time between hotels wandering the endless shopping streets of the Kawarimachi district, at one point coming across the temple where Oda Nobunaga met his firey end.  Eventually I ended up in CHICAGO. No, that's not an exaggeration. CHICAGO (all capitals because Japan) is a vintage clothing store that has a huge collection of used Japanese clothing: kimono, yukata, hakama, etc. Somehow I refrained from liquidating my retirement fund to buy them all. In fact, I didn't buy anything for myself but I maybe going back today. πŸ˜… After lunch (squid curry...tastier than it might sound) I got my bag from my old hotel and eventually, after walking in circles because Google Maps was... unhelpful, I caught a bus that took me to Hotel #2. This place is a little nicer. I've lived in apartments smaller than this room. It also has an in-room washer/dryer (one machine!) which is critical because it is crazy hot and humid and I am swe

Kyoto morning, day one

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Well, I did not quite manage to defeat jet lag, despite a decent plan (sleep a little on the plane, stay up as late as I can to get myself on a good sleep schedule). I woke up at about 2:30 at first, though I managed to go back to sleep until about 4. At that point I gave up and watched some YouTube until I got sleepy again around 5, and managed to doze for another hour and a half. But at 6:30 I decided to just get up and enjoy an early walk. (I look ticked off but I'm just squinting from the light) It was quite nice, although it was already 75 degrees out. I walked on a river path, and then down a smaller river path, just wandering randomly and occasionally buying iced coffee from the vending machines that are, no kidding, everywhere. The rumors are not exaggerated. I finally got to a huge Shinto shrine that is apparently a big attraction, though fairly empty at that time of day.  It was too early to see the gardens, but the shrine itself was pretty neat an

End of a long day

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It's 8:30 pm in Kyoto, which is 4:30 am back home. I'm resting in my capsule hotel room, the final stop for the night.  I booked this place for tonight only, for two reasons...one, because I wanted the experience of a capsule hotel, and two, because I didn't know when I would get here and many hotels in Japan don't appreciate late check ins with no arrival time arranged. The hotel is honestly trying a little too hard to be hip...they are really leaning into the brutalist/modern aesthetic, to the point that when I first got there I thought I had accidentally gone in the back entrance. (The lobby) I go to a real hotel tomorrow and I am not sad about that. First, although the name of this place is "Hotel Millennials" I am pretty sure Millennials are actually above the target demographic. My GenX ass is way too old for this. Also, though the bed seems comfortable enough the room is pretty stuffy, even with the "fan" on (it makes a

ζ—₯ζœ¬γ«γ‚γ‚ŠγΎγ™γ‚ˆ!

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I'm here! The flight was long but quite pleasant, what with a seat that was basically my own private room plus private restaurant service. Two amazingly tasty meals, a fully reclining bed, and a big TV screen...forget first class on Alaska... Sadly, I am no longer rich, as I am traveling to Kyoto on the bullet train in steerage class. I'm also a little afraid I don't have the right ticket and I am going to get in trouble...find out next post, I guess! Update: the ticket guy just came past and it looks like I'm in the clear! πŸ₯³ This train is fast.

Hiccups

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Two things I had forgotten, and two things I did not know. The forgotten: 1. Because I booked the flight through Alaska but was flying JAL, the Alaska app hadn't provided a boarding pass. 2. The time of the flight is when they take off, not when you need to be there. The unknown: 1. In SFO, the D gates (where I landed) and the A gates where I was leaving from) are fucking far apart... 2. ...and require you to leave and re-enter security. For which I would definitely need a boarding pass meaning I couldn't just get one at the gate. I realized this at approximately 11:48 am. My flight left at 12:20. The panic set in as I waited for the train, and was full-blown as I desperately looked for the JAL counter. Tearfully I explained I was on the flight that was currently boarding. The lady was wonderful. She quickly radioed the plane, and assured me they wouldn't leave without me. She printed the boarding pass and walked me right to the front of the security line. I cut in front of

In San Francisco

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Made it so far! No further complications other than a woman allergic to dogs being seated next to a service dog, which caused some drama (it worked out okay). I must admit, it was nice not having to scrunch myself to avoid touching the person next to me. Again, not sure it's worth the extra money usually but if I was rich I'd go first class for everything. And it came with a fancy breakfast! So fancy. I do have time to enjoy the first-class perks after all...but the Japan Airlines lounge is closed until September so I am back at the Alaska one. No free sushi here. πŸ˜₯ One other cool thing (to me): seeing a very clear view of the San Andreas Fault from the air. Amazing how obvious it is from above. (It was more obvious than this airplane window picture could show.) Next stop, Tokyo!